更新时间:2018-10-07
Homo sapiens • 百货店奇遇记 第二季:帽子与阶级
《百货店奇遇记》的特点之一就是对英国人等级意识的直白反映与善意嘲弄，第三集开头，我便被科普了帽子与等级的关系——
Mr. Rumbold（百货店的floor manager，如果百货店的董事长"Young" Mr. Grace不出现，他就是老大）发现Captain Peacock（百货店这一层的floorwalker，监管售货员并协助顾客）戴了顶bowler，提醒公司规定的戴帽子的规则：“Bowlers are reserved for departmental heads and above. Senior floor staff, such as yourself, are allowed a homburg. Junior floor staff should wear caps or trilbys.” 之后，销售员Mr. Humphries戴着顶bowler出现，Captain Peacock提醒他低级员工不能戴bowler，Mr. Humphries说他要见自己的律师，"they don't really go for a porkpie"。再然后，总是迟到的Mr. Lucas火急火燎地现身，没有戴帽子，Captain Peacock向他说明了戴帽子的员工守则。
无知但好学如我，查了一下这些帽子：
Bowler
又叫billycock, bob hat, bombín或者derby (USA)。 圆顶硬礼帽，十九世纪流行于工人阶级，之后流行于中产和上层阶级。Popular among the working classes in the 19th century, from the early 20th century bowler hats were commonly associated with businessmen working in the financial districts, also known as "City Gents". The traditional wearing of bowler hats with City business attire declined during the 1970s. 这个变化很有意思。比较著名的使用者有查理·卓别林和John Cleese。
Homburg
Captain Peacock按照员工守则应该戴这个。Although the homburg is considered a more formal hat, it is not an equivalent alternative to the top hat for formal attire, but more usually worn with clothing appropriate for semi-formal attire or at least informal attire (not to be confused with casual attire). 也是别扭。《教父》里的帽子。
Trilby
软毡帽。销售员Mr. Humphries和Mr. Luca应该戴这个。窄边。曾经被看作是富人最爱的帽子（所以为什么沦落成了商场低级员工的帽子）。
Cap
各种样式，通常用于保暖。不知道剧里说的会不会是某一种特定的cap。销售员Mr. Humphries和Mr. Luca也可以戴这个。
Pork pie
Mr. Humphries说律师们可不会喜欢pork pie。1830—1865之间主要由英美女士们穿戴，巴斯特·基顿在电影中穿戴后开始在男士间流行，后来又与美国黑人音乐联系在一起，形制不断改动。
Fedora
剧中没有提到的帽子。为什么在剧里没有姓名？
影视中的帽子与文化，感觉可以写篇小文章呀。
Mr. Rumbold（百货店的floor manager，如果百货店的董事长"Young" Mr. Grace不出现，他就是老大）发现Captain Peacock（百货店这一层的floorwalker，监管售货员并协助顾客）戴了顶bowler，提醒公司规定的戴帽子的规则：“Bowlers are reserved for departmental heads and above. Senior floor staff, such as yourself, are allowed a homburg. Junior floor staff should wear caps or trilbys.” 之后，销售员Mr. Humphries戴着顶bowler出现，Captain Peacock提醒他低级员工不能戴bowler，Mr. Humphries说他要见自己的律师，"they don't really go for a porkpie"。再然后，总是迟到的Mr. Lucas火急火燎地现身，没有戴帽子，Captain Peacock向他说明了戴帽子的员工守则。
无知但好学如我，查了一下这些帽子：
Bowler
又叫billycock, bob hat, bombín或者derby (USA)。 圆顶硬礼帽，十九世纪流行于工人阶级，之后流行于中产和上层阶级。Popular among the working classes in the 19th century, from the early 20th century bowler hats were commonly associated with businessmen working in the financial districts, also known as "City Gents". The traditional wearing of bowler hats with City business attire declined during the 1970s. 这个变化很有意思。比较著名的使用者有查理·卓别林和John Cleese。
Homburg
Captain Peacock按照员工守则应该戴这个。Although the homburg is considered a more formal hat, it is not an equivalent alternative to the top hat for formal attire, but more usually worn with clothing appropriate for semi-formal attire or at least informal attire (not to be confused with casual attire). 也是别扭。《教父》里的帽子。
Trilby
软毡帽。销售员Mr. Humphries和Mr. Luca应该戴这个。窄边。曾经被看作是富人最爱的帽子（所以为什么沦落成了商场低级员工的帽子）。
Cap
各种样式，通常用于保暖。不知道剧里说的会不会是某一种特定的cap。销售员Mr. Humphries和Mr. Luca也可以戴这个。
Pork pie
Mr. Humphries说律师们可不会喜欢pork pie。1830—1865之间主要由英美女士们穿戴，巴斯特·基顿在电影中穿戴后开始在男士间流行，后来又与美国黑人音乐联系在一起，形制不断改动。
Fedora
剧中没有提到的帽子。为什么在剧里没有姓名？
影视中的帽子与文化，感觉可以写篇小文章呀。
